Sunday, March 18, 2012

Riking the Mountain

Ever since arriving at site almost 4 months ago, I've always looked at the impressive-looking Plachkovica (Плачковица) mountain south of my village and thought, "Man, when the weather gets nice I really need to find a way to go hiking there".

Plachovica Mountain, viewed from my village. The village of Teranci is at the foothill.


From extensive review on Google Earth, I had determined that there were dirt trails, mostly for donkeys (I think my host family said магарешки патови which is literally donkey roads), somewhere out there. But the main issue was distance, because it is about 5-6km just to reach the beginning of some of these trails. Lacking a bike and any other mode of transport, I would have to rike (run/hike) it. I know, I know...rike isn't that original. But I like it anyway. Interestingly enough, according to Wiktionary, the word 'rike' meant kingdom or dominion in Old English: http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/rike . The more you know.

Having some beautiful spring weather in abundant supply, I set out on my rike yesterday, heading south along the asphalt road between Obleshevo and Teranci. I frequently run this route in the mornings before I go to work at the municipality, and it is one of my favorites because it is one of the few options for some (albeit minor) elevation gain close to where I live. On this

Some field burning in preparation for the rice planting season.


It took me about 20 minutes to reach Teranci, and then I used my mental Google Earth map to try to find the path up into the mountain. My first attempt was a bit of a failure, but I found a trail of some sort until it dead-ended. Nonetheless, I was just happy to be exploring and discovering new places. Eventually I stopped running once I realized I had no idea where I was going.
My first trail attempt.


After going back the way I came, I managed to stumble upon one of the donkey trails I spied from Google Earth. I was pretty excited about this. Shortly afterward I found something like a fork in the road with multiple trail-like things splitting off, so I decided to go left and see where it took me. It was like Choose-your-own-adventure from back in the day. I think I actually remarked that aloud to myself. Anyway, I was having a blast, doing some legit hiking, enjoying nature, barreling through the brush and getting my legs cut to hell (not that bad though).


This is where I decided to turn around, because I wasn't seeing much of а trail anymore and I probably needed a machete to go further.


Eventually I made my way back to the trailhead and the main donkey road, and then decided to just go straight for a while. I had some pretty awesome views of the Kocani Valley.

Kocani in the distance, with Osogovo Mountain in the background.

This is Teranci, and my village Obleshevo is in the upper right part of the picture.

Looking to the east, towards Zrnovci and Vidovishte.


I continued to wander and I have to admit, it was the most fun I've had in a long time. By no means was this anywhere near the best hiking experience of my life, nor did it have any spectacular views compared to other places I've been, but all the same it made me feel alive, independent, and optimistic. Alive because I've really missed being in nature and taking in the fresh air away from the sounds of tractors, the flour mill next door, or barking stray dogs. Independent because it gave me one of the few (though brief) opportunities I've had in the last 6 months to be self-reliant, something in sharp contrast to the independence I had back in America. And optimistic because, well, when you're out in the middle of nowhere with no one around and endless possibilities as to where to go, anything can happen. I've heard people say (or something similar) that in Peace Corps it can be rare to have 'big' successes, and instead the best you can hope for are small victories. Yesterday was the latter for me, and hopefully more are on the way.

For now, I'm going to enjoy another beautiful spring day and play basketball with some local high school kids. It's funny how that works. I bought a basketball a few weeks ago, and on a few occasions I've shot around at the local primary school by myself. And then all of sudden two days ago I have kids coming by my house to see if I want to play with them. One of them tried to get me to stop to play on my run back from the mountain yesterday, but as I ran by I said, "Сум изморен, но утре!" (I am tired, but tomorrow!). I think the basketball was a good purchase!

More photos from my hike here: http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150603168659117.383001.525244116&type=1&l=b79e71519c

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